News and Reviews

Tim Pawsey, Northwest Palate
May/June 2004
By Susie Wall

Brioche 401 West Cordova St.
The rough brick interior looks haphazard, with funky kitchen tables, wicker chairs, and cheerful bric-a-brac on the walls. But this seemingly rustic cafe is highly organized, thanks to owner-chef Eduardo Bilardello. Born and raised in Sicily, Bilardello credits his mother with all the recipes, from white bean and vegetable soup with pancetta to the Sicilian "meat loaf" with a pizza-like topping - classic country fare that's perfect for low-carbers.

Bilardello says he yearns for the days when eggplants were huge and he could walk out to pick true Sicilian oregano. But he still rises early to prepare his fruit-topped scratch muffins, specialty cakes, and croissants. Whether you yearn for a tall cappuccino, some home mead duck, spinach and feta quiche, or a vanilla bean and espresso creme brulee, you'll find it all here.

Open 7am-6pm Monday to Saturday with Sunday Hours to come.