News and Reviews Adventures in Dining
- The Sicilian Connection Where: 401 W. Cordova St. If the Pillsbury Dough Boy went on a trip to France, put on a egg white beret and hung out in a cafe, he might end up looking like a brioche, which in turn resembles a deflated Michelin Man who's spent some time in a tanning salon. Now if the two of them got Eurail passes and continued on down to Palermo, Sicily, they'd find themselves alongside dishes like the creations in this eatery. Meet up with The Brain in this tiny, bustling cafe, rustically simple with a big open kitchenyou can peer in to, along with a dessert showcase up front that you'll fog up with an open mouth as you salivate over the delectable items begind the glass. "What's with all the tourists in Gastown" The Brain wondered. "Don't they know this is October?" Pretty dreary when you're running the camcorder up and down Gassy Jack and the Steamclock" "I figure they should combine the two and have the steam come out the seat of his pants, each vapour ticking off the hour," I replied. Finagled a table in these closequarters, steamed up from the pizza oven and panina grills, and awaited olur order. Owner and chef Eduardo Bilardello is using his mother's recipes that he grew up with in Sicily to recreate fantastically fresh and bellywarming dishes using local ingredients that he shops for daily, along with the odd trip to Osoyoos and other veggie and fruit regions to gather even more supplies. The pastry ched Patrice Cordier, who arrives early each day to begin baking and whipping sugar and chocolate into submission. Each have done time in highend spots but wanted to opoen a place that brings great cooking to the people. As well, they run a thricing catering business. The Brain dug into a generous portion of game hen, roasted with lemon, rosemary and a sprinkle of Cajum mix for a spicy tastebud kick, nesting in a bed of crisp spring greenery. I took on the Penne Salsiccia, a lusty tomato sauce chock full of homemade Italian sausage, along with a salad of spring greens and bocconcini cheese tossed in a wild berry vinaigrette. Essentially everything in this place is 10 bucks or under, making these eats one of the best deals in the city. And plenty of disches wouldn't look out of place in a fancypants white tablecloth and signature cutlary joint. Soups here are an artform, built from scratch into tantalizing briths like porcini mushroom and potato shindig, a cream of butternut squash construction, white bean and pancetta or the cannellini with a spiral of truffle oil for a seductive depth and aromatic whiff to the mix. Popular paninis include the NY Steak, the homemade chorizo or Sicilian sausage varieties, along with great pork medallion sandwich on fresh baked bread but you never know when you step inside what the daily specials will offer. Stunning seafood pasta salad resplendent with plump prawn bodies, omelettes, salmon, shrimp and smoked french cheese quiche, or try the amazing eggplant parmigiana, Sicilian pizza like capricosa, artichoke, mushroom and olive schlimazel or equally savoury Italian meatloaf. And of course, there's the desserts, from tiramisu to gateau aux chocolat to cheesecake to fruit pastries for itching every scratch of your sweet tooth. "So Brain, what's the verdict?"
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